El Priorat

Spain > Catalonia > Priorat

It is one of only two wine regions in Spain to qualify as DOCa, the highest qualification level for a wine region according to Spanish wine regulations (care to guess which one is the other DOCa region?). Priorat is one of Spain's most dynamic wine regions, known for its powerful reds made predominantly from old-vine Garnacha, sometimes with the addition of Cariñena.

Vineyard at Franck Massard, Priorat
Vineyard at Franck Massard, Priorat

Located in Catalonia, north-eastern Spain, the official Priorat viticultural area lies inland from the historic city of Tarragona; this small wine appellation, with 1700 ha of vines and just over 60 bodegas is one of Spain's most expensive.

Winemaking can be traced back to the 12th century, when the Carthusian order of Catholic monks (the same order that later would create the liqueur Chartreuse) who arrived from Provence possibly bringing Garnacha, established a priory (monastery or "priorat" in the Catalan language) called Scala Dei (ladder of God) and vineyards beside it. Winemaking continued, making essentially sacramental wine, until phylloxera reached the region at the end of the 19th century, causing economic ruin and large scale emigration of the population.

In 1932 the rule of wine by the Ministry of Agriculture had already recognised the Priorat as a wine zone to protect; the application and execution of this law wasn't carried out due to the sociopolitical circumstances lived in the country (until the end of the civil war). It wasn't until the 1950s that replanting was undertaken, the DO Priorat being formally created in 1954. But it's not until the year 2000, due to the great recognition of the quality and singularity of the DO, the Regulatory Council took the decision to apply to the Catalan government for the DOQ ("qualified wine region") distinction, but national level confirmation from the Spanish Government, as a DOCa, only came on 2009, despite the fact that these designations were exactly the same but in Catalan and Spanish regulations.

Like many world-class wine regions the secret here is spectacular terroir. Hillside vineyards where vines grow on steep terraces at varying altitudes of 100-700m with poor soils (a mix of black and red slates and quartz) and low yielding old vines are the key. The characteristics of the soils force the roots of the vines to penetrate deep to gather nutrients, minerals and water. These will confer special quality to the wine and keep the vines firmly anchored to the earth during the strong winds and storms which are common to the area.

The principal varieties grown here continue to be Garnacha and Cariñena (aka Carignan). Also authorized are Garnacha Peluda, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah. A small number of rosé wines are made and a handful of cold-fermented white wines. Authorized white varieties are: Garnacha blanca, Macabeo, Pedro Ximénez, Viognier and Chenin Blanc.

After fermentation, most of these wines are transferred to 300-liter casks of American or, preferably, French oak and then matured in barrel for between 6 and 24 months, depending on the desired traditional classification. Crianzas must spend one year in oak, followed by a year in bottle before release; Reservas must spend one year in oak and then two years in bottle; Gran Reservas spend two years in oak and three years in bottle. In practice, few wineries use the traditional aging classifications. Instead, the wine is aged for 18 months in oak barrels, then a few months in bottle before being released as a vino de guarda (a wine to keep).

Premier Producers

  • René Barbier (Clos Mogador)
  • Alvaro Palacions (Finca Dofi, L'Ermita)
  • Dapne Glorian (Clos Erasmus)
  • José Luis Pérez (Mas Martinet)
  • Carlos Pastrana (Clos de L'Obac)
  • Combier Fischer Gerin (Trio Infernal)
  • Joseph Puig (Viñedos de Ithaca)


Sources:
 - Berry Bros & Rudd
 - wine-searcher
 - Consell Regulador de la DOQ Priorat
 - wineanorak
 - Wikipedia

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